hi I’m Rachael I’m @minimalistmachinist

on Instagram and I’m making some walkthrough videos on how to use seamly2D pattern making software okay so we’ve just finished those instructions we’re

going to work on to the next one okay so it’s L to N is the new strap measurement

plus 1/8 an inch I to N so again we know the length of that line but we don’t

know the angle so I’m gonna have to do an arc with the center point being I and

the radius is going to be that new strap measurement side to waist side front

plus 1/8 of an inch first angle is 180 270 and that’s a

guideline okay oh it looks like I’ve missed squaring up from E at some point

a square up eleven inches from E so we’ll just quickly do that that arc

intersects this guideline now so this is going to give us the point that goes

from I to there using our arc first and then the guideline just creating a point

along the arc I’m just gonna hold shift down to make sure it intersects it’s a

guideline and then we’re just going to join that line N to O is the side length so N to O and P

and a quarter inch out from N horizontal line which we’ve done so

many times already one of the quarter-inch may as well use their value

so I’ve already got it’s a guideline P2 P is the side line length is directed

towards the P and ends when it’s equal from N to O so it’s probably gonna be

shorter but it also needs to make sure it goes along that exact angle so in

order to make sure it matches the angle perfectly I’m gonna use the line tool

and go from O to P so we’ve got a line to copy a line angle to copy and then

we’re gonna use our point tool I’m gonna start from O and can press anywhere here

so we’re gonna set the angle on line with our formulas the length of the line

now this is an interesting one we’re gonna match the length of N to O and we

could put the formula in again from N to O which was the side length but what we

want to do is just match what’s already there so the length of line from N O

so it’s going to match it perfectly now the angle we also need to match from O

to P so we’re going to go into our formulas we need angle of the line O to

P I’m gonna call it P2 draw a line from

P to F this is a guideline again P2 to F2 and that’s a guideline so we’re

moving on to the next set of instructions now P to Q is the waist

arc plus quarter of an inch less the length of B to F that we’ve already

drawn first thing first we’re going to draw a line from B to F2 which is F

squared down and that’s a guideline you have to have done these things in a

certain order in order for the formulas to pick them up in order to know what

length of line is it needs to already be there so make sure you’re adding lines

between points before you then go on to try and use them as formulas oh it so

it’s along the Peter f line P 2 I’m gonna aim it towards F2 doesn’t really

matter because we’re going to set the angle perfectly the length is a tricky

one it’s the waist arc front mine’s the whole amount so I’m gonna do

it in half + quarter of an inch ease so I can put all that in brackets as well

so within that bracket it’s working out my waist arc and halving it and then

within this bracket it’s saying that plus quarter-inch and then it needs to

subtract the part of the line that’s already been made so that’s going to be

B to F – so and just needs to go to lengths of lines B – F – and we’re – in

that so it leaves us with this amount and that’s going to be the length of the

line from P to Q and we need to make sure the angles perfect so we need to

choose the angle of a line that’s already there and that’s P2 – F – that

is a guideline because we’re going to have to curve it later I think so just

save that I’m gonna call it Q dart legs draw a line from K to F and measure it

don’t need to measure it because we’re gonna have it automatically okay – F2 –

because that’s the squared down this is a guideline because I think the dart

lines I made smaller K to draw a dart like from K through Q equal to K to F we

need to have one from K to Q to be able to work from and that’s a guideline and

then we need to do one from K click that off anyway we’re making sure it matches

that completely we need to find the length of a line K to F to want to make

sure it’s the same length as that and we want to make sure it’s the angle of the

line that we just drew in K to Q so the angle of the line K to Q label is it

so it’s making sure it goes through Q to do the dart point so we need to Center a

point from 5/8 inch down from the bust point and then redraw those dart lines

from that point to F and R the way we do that is we use this bisector which

selects the first point in the middle points third point and it creates a line

right down the middle of those and it needs to be 5/8 of an inch I think it

was so I can just do five times one eighth of an inch and we’re going to

label that as K2 joining points that already are created

so you’re going from K2 to F2 and that’s only a black line and K2 to R

which is gonna be a black line because it’s the edge of our bodice draw slight

curved lines from B to F and R to P so it’s B to F2 and R to P – actually it’s

curved line and because it’s only two points you just use simple curve and I

draw it as I point it so you’ll see what i mean so be and before I let go of F I

kind of start drawing it usually if you start drawing it you can kind of curve it

a little bit you can get your handles ready these little red handles you see

the little circles that you can pull it along to make the curve a little bit

neater now this is never going to be accurate because French curve you can’t

draw a French curved curve if that makes sense so you can have to do this in

toiling and once you’ve printed it out and everything but gives you a bit of an

idea so there’s one of the curves and really the same on this we’re on the next set of instructions

now so armhole draw armhole curve with rule touching GM and the square line

now this is a personal fit thing because my boob point is so low this point L to

M which is exactly half of D to J and J is equal to my bus depth my boobs are

really low so I feel like this and for me it’s quite low for everyone else

that’ll be a little bit higher and you see how mine is lower than my point and

whereas in this it’s higher than the O point this is because it presumes your

boob point is a little bit higher than mine and really low like I said my

armhole always looks a bit weird now for this purpose I’m gonna make this a

little bit higher up so you can see where the curve might actually work I’m

gonna just divide that by three and move the whole thing up rather than it being

half I’m gonna move it up a little bit higher so it looks a bit more like the

diagram just for the purposes of this and also look across the chest of mine

comes out further than my shoulder and on this it doesn’t this is all personal

fit stuff so I would have to mess about with this to make it right for my body

because and my body doesn’t fit in the exact same pattern shape as the book

does it doesn’t really matter for purposes of this I’m gonna make this a

little bit shorter just so you can see and draw the curve a bit easier so

now mines shorter than my the shoulder point I always get this problem because

of my boobies so what you need to do is draw a curved path for this one you can

draw it as your place at the points so you can do G as your start point and

when you get to M you start drawing the line you see I’ve not let go yet let go

and I’m gonna do my third point now and I just carry on drawing it before I let

go as well and this is my preferred method of doing it because it just makes a more smooth curve but you can then enter to finish and then it gets you to do the

same thing again so draw a curve from A to D passing inside the angle line by

one 8th of an inch and that’s this side this is only a two point curve so you can go

back to this one and I to D and then before I let go I kind of just like draw

this out and I’m gonna eyeball where it goes to 1/8 of an inch over here so I’m

just gonna do that and that is it that’s your front bodice piece I’m gonna do the

walkthrough for the back pattern piece and then hopefully show you how to add

allowances and get it ready for printing out and things like that but I’m also

gonna do the walkthroughs for those two other books that I have on hand as well

and just to show you how the tools might differ but hopefully that’s got you

started and it’s a little less intimidating and I’ll be back with

another video soon