For all life’s messy little moments, we’ve
got the perfect solution, a bib without a tie. Super easy project. Let’s get started. So if you’re like me you’re always dashing
about. And having a bib that you could even put the car or something is really a great
solution. Now this is a great project. And I just want to say quickly thanks to Pat.
A dear friend of ours that came up with this project idea. And we have a wonderful free
pattern right here called Cut the Apron Strings because there is no tie. We just have these
wonderful poly beans up here in the shoulder parts. All you’re going to need is one yard
of your favorite fabric. I chose this incredible fabric from Moda. It’s a gradations kind
of pixelated and I love it. Look, this is what the other side looks like. So it was
a full ombre print. Now what I went ahead and did is I’ve already taken the yard and
I’ve trimmed up the top and bottom. But before we do the next thing we’re going
to go ahead and turn it right sides together and get ready to mark it for the neck hole.
So it’s still folded where the 45 was. And I”m going to take a second and press. Move
those poly beans. We don’t want to spill those while we’re working here. And I’m
just going to go ahead and press this nice. I’m lining up my outside edges. We’re
going to do all of the work right off of the bolt basically, right off of the yardage here.
So I’m just hitting that seam over there. And now what I want you to do is look at the
fabric. If your fabric has a direction to the print itself, maybe you’ve got some
cute little pigs eating, you know, ice cream cones or something like that on there, make
sure your direction is right sides up. We’re going to be approaching the top of our bib.
We’re going to need a small ruler. We’re going to come over like it says here on the
instructions, 4 ½ inches from the edge. So I’m coming over 4 ½. And I’m just going
to mark with my sharpie. I’m going to spin it. And I should probably flip this up so
we can all read it, 4 ½ again, a little mark there. And then what I like to do myself is,
I”m going to find the center. So I”m at 12 ½ inches between because I already trimmed
off my selvedge so your numbers might be a little different. So let’s just come over
about 6 ¼, put a little center mark. And then I’m going to drop down another eight
inches here. This line I’m going to do a little bit of a dotted line on the backside
of the fabric. This will all be cut away. Try not to mark through in anyway that would
bleed through your stuff. Now that that’s been done this way I want
a really nice arc for that neck hole so I’m going to fold it one more time. And now I
can see that’s the starting point. There’s the bottom. And for me I just find it’s
easiest if I take my pen out. It doesn’t have to be a perfect half circle but I’m
just going to go ahead and make myself kind of a dotted line that’s going to represent
the neck hole. What I want to point out though, this section right in here is where those
beans are going to be so the more if this is your skate ramp, the more vertical we have
in this area, the better it’s going to be. So a couple good inches in here to be the
pocket for where the beans go. Once that has been drawn into place I’m just going to
get my hands safe. I”m going to use my rotary cutter with my fingers behind it. And I’m
just going to cut this arc natural along that dotted line just like this. Ok? We’ll set
that aside. We won’t need that again later. And now what we’re going to do is we’re
going to come down here. We’re going to leave an opening so we can turn it back to
right sides out later. So I’m going to start about oh say six inches from the bottom edge.
I have a quarter inch edge guide marker on, cotton threads. You could use poly because
it’s technically a garment if you want it to be. I’m going to backstitch there and
I”m going to sew all the way to this front corner and right off so I can pivot. Line
myself back up. And we’re doing this edge first just to make life easy. The other is
going to be folded but I’ll still stitch it. Now I’m coming up to that top corner
and I can see that my fold shifted a little bit with my arc but it’s not going to be
a big deal at all because it’s just a little bib that were making so I’m just kind of
helping realign those edges. Coming back over here and as I sew through my arc I am going
to keep my quarter inch seam allowance edge guide here in place. And I’m just going
to slowly let those corners come through. Just matching up those two edges of the fabric.
Now I’ve come to the halfway mark, so I’m just going to double check to make sure everything
is lined up nice as I finish it out. We’re going to go right across the top here. And
I am going to sew as I said down the folded side because that’s going to keep all the
math symmetrical. It’s not a requirement but then this side would be technically a
half inch larger than the other side if we don’t. So I’m just going to zip down to
the bottom on this. Wasn’t kidding when I said zip. Now I’m going to come off that
bottom edge again and prepare to go to the opening. Oop, let’s get a little better
start, there we go. I only need about four to six inches to fit my hands through. So
that’s about my hand’s length there. I’m stopping, I am cutting. And all of the sewing
construction is technically done. I want to go ahead and take a moment and dog ear these
little corners up here so that we can make a nice crisp turn out. We’ll also do our
bottom two corners. I told you I didn’t get a very good start. It’s alright, we’ll
be able to fix that as we fold it right sides back out. So that’s what we’re going to do next,
we’re going to go right sides out. And I’m going to stick my hand up in here and I’m
going to work all the way up into those shoulder parts. Get our nice little crisp corners like
we were working towards. You could trim that arc in the neck if you made a little steeper
arc. I never find that it’s necessary but some folks that like to do garment sewing
will do that as well in there. . There’s those nice crisp corners there and here. Now
we’re gonna finish the entire project with top sewing. And we’re going to put the beans
in one at a time up into the shoulder pieces. So what I’m really going to do is do 90%
of the top sewing now, then the beans. So we come back to the machine. And I”m
going to make it look and start at this corner. So I’ll finish the top sewing to finish
the hole. I need to leave that hole so I can get up inside to put the beans in place. So
what I’m going to do now is this is a fun little topstitching trick, is I”m going
to find a thread that I like to match. And as I begin down the seam I come down about,
oh let’s say six to ten inches ahead of myself, roll that seam out and then I just
let it roll flat through there using the edge of my foot now as my guide. And I’m going
to go do this all the way around the project except for the bottom edge. And we’ll be
ready to get those beans in here in just a second. Let me jump into caffeinated mode
for us all. Ok as I promised I’ve stopped at the bottom corner so I still need to topstitch
this whole edge. It’s open so we can fill the beans. Now the next step for getting ready for our
beans though is we need to mark our pockets. So I want to use a five inch ruler and I’m
going to flip this over to the darker side of the fabric just so I can see a little bit
better. So I’m coming down here basically five inches parallel from that top edge. And
I’m just going to make myself a line that I should be able to see over at the machine
and line now. So we make our lines first and then we get our beans ready. That’s just
right on that. I’m going to have to make myself an arrow to see that one. Fun, ok.
Now that that’s there I’m going to use my poly pellets and roughly about half to
¾ of a cup per shoulder. So one of the things I like to do is, uh oh, getting away from
me. Fill this about up like yay, like this. Now what I’m going to do, I really want
the beans to just get in the corner so I’m kind of coming in here, holding my cup upright.
And I”m going to go all the way down into this corner and I”m going to pour them into
just the one side at a time. Now that it’s here, I’m using gravity in my favor. I”m
getting my edge guide completely out of the way right now. I should have done that earlier.
And then what’s going to happen is gravity keeping off of the table has gotten those
beans all the way down and out of my way. I can see that beautiful chalk line there.
And now I’m just going to go ahead and topstitch and lock it in. Backstitch there. Coming across.
Making sure there’s no beans in my path. And I’m using now just the wonderful stripe
in the fabric to follow that chalk line. And I’m going to lock this down. Now what I
want to do is I want to cut this and I”m going to come and do one exact row of stitching
just like that just next to it. So I’m now using the edge of my presser foot on the sewing.
I’m no longer worried about the beans getting down there because they’re already trapped
up on the first. This is a security stitch, a safety stitch. I keep it all in place over
time stitch. And I’m locking that down. And I”m coming up here to do the other side.
Put the same amount in both sides of the shoulders, like I said roughly half to ¾ of a cup of
beans. That’s more than was done on the other side. Of course I’m using my iron
filling cup here for the scooper today so I’m not obviously being too worried about
accuracy. And of course a couple of caffeine, Wily Coyote earthquake pills before every
film shoot always makes me good and shaky anyway, right? There we go. Now we need to get this back up in here. We’ve
got to get it to this shoulder here. Keeping my cup upright. I’m working myself all the
way over, all the way over. Dumping it down. Get the cup out of the way. Get the cup out
of the way. I got the cup lost in the fabric out of the way. There it is. Still though
gravity. That’s the thing that I want you to see if nothing else. Gravity is working
in our favor. There’s also a neat trick where you can use a pen or a pencil or something
along the edge down here to keep these beans back. Of course I could have put some safety
pins in the way. But this works really good. Sewing on that line. Double checking to make
sure I have no escaping beans. Lock it down. We’re going to do that last security stitch.
It was about a foot’s width down. Ok and now that construction is all set up. All we
need to do now is come back down to our bottom seam and just finish this right back out.
So I’m going to pick up where I left off on that corner, tie it back in. Get it up
and rolling. And I’m just taking a second and pulling this bottom corner nice and taut.
And what that just did is it flipped those seams in for me. Now I’m going to pinch
kind of halfway through that raw edge. And what we’re doing now is we’re sealing
the entire bib closed. We’re going to go all the way across that so nice and easy right
over to our other bottom corner. Lock that down and all I have to do is trim those little
pieces of thread. And I’ve got yet another fantastic, full length body bib there. And I know what you’re thinking, he’s
going to ask us today what kind of fabric are we going to use. And he wants us to tell
us in the comments below. But that’s not it. I want to hear what is your biggest mess
story. Of course I want to know what kind of fabric you’re going to use. You only
need one yard’s worth. But I want to hear your greatest mess disaster and why you’re
making yourself your very own body bib right here at Man Sewing. Oh, hey are you still in here. I thought you
would have been checking out some of those other great videos. You know we’ve got a
link there, over there. And hey don’t forget to subscribe. Make sure you never miss a minute
of the action. We’ll catch you next time, at Man Sewing.