Hello, everyone. Welcome back to my channel. It’s Momo, and today, I’m going to be playing with this chiffon fabric. Personally, I don’t like to work with chiffon fabrics just because it’s slippery, it frays, and the threads get everywhere when you try to make a pattern out of it. We’ll see how it goes. Make sure to like and subscribe. Let’s get started. This is a button-up, and I’m just gonna trace out the front half. I have my fabric folded in half, twice. And I’m gonna transfer over the pattern onto the fabric. And then cutting it on fold. When you open it up, you should have two pieces that are identical. This is when I realized that I actually didn’t adjust the neckline. So I’m gonna back in and actually just open up the top, match up the shoulder lines and the side seams. Make sure the front is folded down the center. Open up the front neckline a little bit. Going back to the chiffon top, I’m going to open the sleeve so that it lays flat and then trace out the shape. I’m going for a ballon-shaped sleeve. So I’m just going to extend the underarm and the top part of the sleeve all the way through to the wrist. It’s time to go back and make any adjustments you might need. I’m going to take in the shoulder a little bit because the shoulder point is going to hang past my actual shoulders, which is going to be like a drop shoulder. That’s not what I’m going for. Here, I’m just tracing out the shape of the armhole on the front and back of one half of the shirt. Open up the shirt like before, and make sure the shoulder points and the side seams match up again. And then I’m going to grab both layers so I’m that I’m holding onto both of the armholes. And then cutting along the new shape that I drew. I’m also going to open up the neck a little bit more because it’s still a little bit too tight for me. I’m also making some adjustments to the sleeve. With right sides facing together, insert the sleeve into the shirt. Sew all around the armhole. To finish all of the raw edges, I’m going to fold the edge under twice and then sew it in place. There’s actually a foot that you can use for this, but I misplaced mine. So I’m gonna pretend that I have really nimble fingers and I’m gonna go in and try to make the edge as narrow as possible. Okay. This is what we have so far. It’s pretty basic. I’m gonna try to shirr just this little part of the wrist. Normally, I imagine you would want to shirr the fabric first and then close the sleeve. But because I’ve already done the opposite of that, we’ll see how it goes! To cinch in the wrist, you’re going to need to prepare a bobbin with some elastic thread. Make sure to pull the thread as you’re winding it around the bobbin. I realize that I haven’t tested the, the shirring on this type of fabric yet. I think I’m gonna go ahead and do that before I start. I do not wanna ruin the shirt this way. So shortening the stitch length seems to have helped a little bit, but it’s not really giving me the stretch that I want. So I’m gonna go ahead and re-do the bobbin. This time, I’m gonna pull at the thread a lot more than before. That’s what I’m looking for. Because I didn’t plan properly, I’m going to have to wing this part a little bit. I’m positioning the sleeve so that the edge is lined up against the edge of the metal plate. Before I start sewing, I’m going to fold the seam allowance towards the top. This way, I don’t accidentally catch the seam allowance with the needle as I’m sewing. And I’m actually going to use the metal plate as a guide to make sure that I’m sewing in a straight line. And then as I approach the starting point, I’m going to fold the seam allowance down towards the bottom. This way, again, I don’t catch the seam allowance with the needle. Now that the first line of the shirring is complete, I’m going to pull the sleeve to the right a little bit so that the first stitch line is lined up against the edge of the foot. For the rest, I’m going to use the edge of the foot as a guide, again, to make sure that I’m sewing in a straight line. And then just repeat the same process as before without snipping off any of the thread. I shirred this area about seven times, and each stitch line is about 1/2″ to 3/4″ apart. Got some shirring action going on here. Now that I have the section in the width that I want, I’m going to go back and snip off those little threads that I kept from before. and sew a new seam right inside of the original seam that was there. This way, the seam around the shirring will hopefully look a little more neat, and the new threads won’t fray over time. This is the final look. Because the fabric is light, I feel like the shirring doesn’t give the top a heavy look at all. I can tuck this into a pair of jeans or a skirt, or actually wear it as a tunic because I made it long enough just for that purpose. In any case, I hope you enjoyed. Make sure to like and subscribe, and I’ll see you in the next video. Bye!