Hello it’s Mouna here ! Today we are going to learn how to make an isoterm lunch bag Elsa. It is not a tutorial for beginners. Even if there are no difficult technical points in this tutorial, it needs to be very precise. Precision when you pin, precision when you sew, etc. If you have to sew at 1cm (3/8 in) it have to be exactly 1 cm (3/8 in) otherwise it will create ugly folds and offsets. That is why I advice to have some experience before starting this lunch bag. To answer a question you ask me many times the isothem material provided in our kits has been bought in a company specialized in refrigerated food transport. So I don’t know where you can find it as an individual. I also specify that isotherm material must not be directly in touch with food. That is why you have to put a lining. One more thing, you can use this free pattern to make a nice handbag because the shape is quite nice. (At least I find it nice !) And finally, you can download for free this Elsa lunch bag pattern on our website www.mounasew.com Every informations and dimensions are available in the info bar And now let’s go for the tutorial ! What contains a kit ? A piece of isotherm material, some cotton for the outside and coated cotton for the lining which lets you wash inside the bag. You also have straps, a 50 cm zipper, the pattern, Gutermann thread and a piece of fusibe interfacing. You begin by taking the outer fabric in length and you fold it in half. Then you do it again. Now you will make coincide this part of the pattern with the folding and the bottom of the pattern with these 2 foldings. Remind to place everything edge to edge and you can make a chalk line all around Now we can position the handles marks. You take a pin and you make a little hole in the fabric in order to have a mark. Depending on whether you want short or long handles, you have to do the same thing on the corresponding pattern area. Here you can watch this little hole in the fabric. To better see it you can draw a cross on each hole. Here I have 3 holes but you should just have 2 because you have choosen long or short handles. After that, you have to cut the fabric on the line you have drawn. When you cut this part, you must not throw it because you will use it to create strips later. Then you can draw crosses again on holes that you have made for handles positioning. You open the fabric to put the right side in front of you and you make marks again on this side. For the tutorial, on one side I will put short handles and on the other side I wil put long handles. In order to solidify the fabric, you will take the handle pattern and cut it 4 time in fusible interfacing. You must cut the pattern according to the lenght of your handles. Here I have 2 of each for the tutorial but you must have 4 similar pieces. It is very important to solidify your fabric using fusible interfacing because if not, the bag could tear when it will be heavy. Fusible interfacing pieces have both a matt and a shiny side. Indeed, the shiny part contains some glue and it is this one you must put on the fabric. You put the shiny face on the wrong side of your fabric and you have to cover crosses that you have made previously. You pin it. Now you can iron on. Remind to desactivate steam. On the same time you can iron all your bag because it is the best opportunity to do it in this tutorial ! It is time for handles making ! You can burn handle edges to avoid fraying. If you have chosen short handles you have to cut at 50 cm. Now we are going to position long handles. Just for the tutorial I draw on marks with a black pen. You have to cover crosses that you have made with handles. Then you pin them. You have to position horizontally the top pin because it will guide you during sewing. Indeed when you will arrive at pin, you will have to stop sewing. Here you can see better and closer that the pin have to be in line with your mark. And you have now to sew a big rectangle like this. You begin your seam with a backstitch when you reach the corner, you have to plant your needle into the fabric, rise up the presser foor, turn your fabric by quarter, push down the presser foot and continue to sew at 2 or 3 mm. At pin level, you stop sewing, you rotate the fabric, and you continue to sew. As I told you, the pin have been used as a guide. At the end of the handle you can wether make a backstitch or strenghten your seam with diagonal stitches and by sewing this pattern. You finish the seam making a backstitch. And it is done for long handles. (my backstitch is quite unusual but it doesn’t matter) For short handles you have to fold the handle and check that you have 4 cm (1 9/16 in). Then you have to do like previously, you have to pin by covering the crosses. Then you have to sew it by making the following pattern. Then you stop sewing to make the last diagonal. So let’s go. So here you finish sewing making a backstitch You take out your fabric and you come back to sew the last diagonal by beginning and finishing with a backstitch. The next step is the zipper installation. You put the zipper face to face with the fabric. Check your are edge to edge then you can pin. You have to sew all along the zipper. You have now to rotate the zipper and you have to do the same thing on the other side. Still face in front of you, you have to put the right side of the zipper to the right side of the fabric. Here you have to be in line with the top and with the side. Like previously, you can pin and sew. To sew the zipper you can use a zipper foot. It is super easy to sew this zipper because it is larger than the fabric lenght. Indeed, in this way, the cursor doesn’t embarrass and you can just sew all along the line. Once you have finished, you can open the zipper totally which is separable. Like previously, you mark the fold. You can using ironer, gently and without steam, if you prefer. And you can leave this part besides for now. It is time to deal with isotherm material. First you have to fold it in two and put your pattern on it. Here you have to take care to let the pattern exceed on the bottom (to me) from 3 or 4 mm Indeed as the isotherm material is thick with bubbles, dimensions are distorted. Once you have cut, you have to cut again the bottom over 1 cm (3/8 in) Now you bring back the previous piece wrong side in front of you and you put the isotherm material on fabric. Bubbles must be put on the wrong side of the fabric. Then I advice to start pinning from here Here it is a fundamental moment You must pin the 4 corners edge to edge because they will determine the right positioning of your isotherm material Then you have to pin the isotherm material to the zipper. Take care to be perfectly aligned everywhere you must not see fabric exceeding on sides. You have now to make an overstitch all around the bag in order to decorate and to fix all together. Before sewing, you have to return the bag and check that there are no folds. Little tip : I advice to burst bubbles using a pin on the isotherm material all around the bag to make the sewing easier. Here you can increase the thread tension. You have to sew with a 3.5 mm lenght stitch to make a nicer seam. You have to use the classic presser foot and it is very easy to sew by following zipper teeth. This seam should not be difficult. You have to make the same thing on the other side Here you can see that it is quite pretty with a thicker thread. and on the other side the seam maintain the isotherm material to the zipper. The next step is the folding You have to fold these 2 parts then you close the zipper It is upside down but it is quite easy to close. You have to let a little opening over 3 or 4 cm on the edge. Then you superimpose every thicknesses and if you miss few centimeters you have to make this movement because everything must coincide perfectly. Because there are many thicknesses (fabric, isotherm material and handles) you can think that the top fabric is shorter but it is not true. So use this movement to make everything coincide edge to edge. That said, sometimes you can face difficulties. When you fold your fabric it could appear many folds like this and you have make them disappear. In order to do that you must fold again the isotherm material and pull the fabric to well put edge to edge. It is very important. Ok, now it is time to make side strips. You have to bring back the piece of fabric that you leave at the beginning of the tutorial. You must take 2 thicknesses. And you just have to make a line all around the pattern and cut the fabric. You have to put them on the wrong side then you have to fold over 1 cm (3/8 in) on each side. You have to fold again in half and mark these folds using ironer. Once you did it, you have to make a seam on each side. If you use a bakcstitch at the end, you will get unsightly threads. The tip is to make a backstitch only at the beginning of the seam (not at the end). You can now cut threads and make an handmade node. In order to do this, you have to pull on a thread to create a loop then you have to slip a pin into the loop to get out the other thread and get 2 threads available on the same side to make a classic node. You can cut the surplus of thread and there is the nice result. To assemble the strip to the bag, put the opened side to the outside and position the strip between the 2 yellow fabrics and more precisely between the yellow fabric and the zipper. You reset clips to maintain the strip. The next step is to close the bag using 2 side seams. Here you must absolutely sew at 1 cm (3/8 in) from the edge. When you arrive at zipper, you can use manually the steering wheel of your sewing machine to avoid hitting the zipper with your needle. Indeed it could break the needle. When you note that the needle will pass over the zipper teeth, rise a bit the presser foot and go slowly. Then you can finish your seam. When you sew the zipper opened side you have to try sewing between teeth. In the previous sequence I forgot telling you to open the zipper before making this seam. It is very important ! Then with classic scissors you have to cut the zipper surplus on each side. Be careful on the zipper closed side it is harder to cut The next step is the most important of this video. It is the assembly of the bag. You have to position your fingers here on both coners and you have to pull. Normally when you pull, the 2 parts should superimpose naturally. Here it hasn’t worked so I do it again. Then you have to pin from the top, it means from the closest zipper side You must be edge to edge. Here I will show you again the sequence. I put my fingers in corners, I pull and sides superimpose quite naturally and I pin from the top edge to edge. At the end, if some folds remain, you can cut your isotherm material to pin correctly. I will show you one last time from closer. Sometimes the yelow fabric slip inside so you have to ride it up then you put fingers in both corners and you pull. Then you pin from the top. Here there are folds and you must absolutely make them disappeard. Here there are many waves so I need to well pull the fabric edge to edge. Then I pin Finally sometimes you can have folds on the yellow fabric like this. In order to fix it you must cut the isotherm material diagonally to have more space. You can now deploy the fabric and delete folds. Here I pull then I pin. You can now sew all the bag. The thread tension is still on 1 You have to sew at 1 cm (3/8 in) from the edge. It is very important otherwise your bag could be too much tense and it would be less pretty. After sewing the 4 corners you get this result. You can be attempted to cut the seam allowance but it is not recommended yet. I advice to return your bag first in order to check your seam. You must check that there are no folds or uncatched fabric pieces. If that is the case you must undo the sewing and restart. You can also iron on strips to lower them. The next step is the assembly of lining I will explain very quickly because you have to replicate exactly the same steps as in the beginning. You have to fold your fabric in 4, transfer the pattern on the fabric, and cut it. Then you have to take the top of the lining It is the side where you have sewn the zipper on yellow fabric. You have to fold this side over 1 cm (3/8 in) You can fold until 1,2 cm but be careful you must not exceed. Then you can make the folding. It is very easy because there is no thickness. Remind to align both left and right sides. You pin and you must let a 2 cm space between 2 sides. Then you make a seam just here. No there is a difference compared to earlier you have to notch here. You have now to assemble your lining like previously. Once again it is easier. Another additional step, you have to open the middle seam using the notch. Then you pin it. You do the same thing on the 4 sides and you can sew at 1 cm (3/8 in) from the edge. You cut the seam allowance by beginning and finishing diagonally. You must do it this way to avoid making a hole in the lining. You can now make it clean. You have to bring back the rest of the bag and put it wrong side in front of you. Then return the lining and put one into the other. You have to pin the lining to the zipper The aim is to cover the isotherm material to let see only the zipper and the lining. You have reach the last step of the tutorial which is the sewing by hand. You have to take a needle and a thread make a node and let’s go ! You have to make invisible stitches. So you start on the fold you have made previously, then you stitch in front between the overstitch and the zipper seam. By making this stitch you must be careful and do not make a hole on the other side. Then you stitch again in front in the fold. As you see, it is totally invisible. Then you do it again. Be careful not to stand out from the other side (not like that XD) At the beginning you will have to check systematically then you will get the technique. Once you finished there is the result. It is completely invisible. You can check it is well sewn. You just have to return the entire lunch bag Take care of corners and… TADAM ! Well done ! We hope that you enjoy this video You can see another version and more details at the end of the video. Put me a thumb up if you want more videos !